Slow News Day...

I guess the Christmas rush has my goodies stuck in the border or in Transit.  Oh well.  I did get my exhaust system in yesterday, but as I am putting in new exhaust gaskets (the old ones are 30,000 km old!), I have to wait until those show up.  Not exactly thrilled with the local Honda dealer... parts counter kid said they would be in this week, while older dude/manager sat at his table and overheard the conversation.  I swung by the shop yesterday (as per the kid's instructions), and same older dude/manager looked at me like I was crazy -- the order didn't go in until Monday this week -- the 21st.  So, with Christmas delays and the weekend, well, nothing is going to get done on the exhaust front this week!

As everyone has said, the weight savings with this system is pretty considerable, and may be noticeable on the bike.  Whatever.  It is a definate improvement over stock cosmetically as well, and upon closer inspection of the OEM headers, I'm not sure how much longer they would last -- mucho corrosion!  The other thing I noticed is that on early Jardine 2-1 systems, one mount would crack, just under the right rearset peg.  From what I could see, the exhaust mount is properly "stiched" and "saddled" to the header pipe.  These terms are from some race preparation/bike fabrication books I have read in the past.  Maybe I'll post some pictures later on with more detail.  Regarless, the fabrication quality looks quite nice -- stainless headers, with tig-welded beads throughout.  All the hardware is in place, and no pieces are missing. 

I also fiddled with the undertail a bit more.  When the weather warmed up (-4 or so), I was able to test-fit the piece to the bike (after some material was trimmed away).  I also mounted aluminum riv-nuts to replace the plastic rivets that would no doubt fall out over time -- you can see the allen head bolts holding it in place.  Looks pretty sleek.  No tailights mounted yet -- not sure if I am going to bother painting the undertail, as the incoming bodywork is already white.  This is more of an ivory color, however, and perhaps to get things to look proper I'll get it done the same time as the fuel tank.

A bit of progress

Not a pile to report.  The radial brake adapters came in the mail.  This is the RHS mounted and installed.  These adapter plates bolt right to the fork leg itself, and so aren't piggy-backed onto another mount, adding weight and fiddly-ness.  Not sure about the quality of the black allen bolts that came with the kit -- they are a smidge too long (although they don't hit the disc) and will likely corrode over time.  I'm gonna try to find something in chrome.  The proper CBR1000RR bolts are on order from Honda to mount the radial caliper to the bracket.  New pads are on the way as well.

Too Cold

Even I have limits -- minus 30 C ambient temps, with a 40 km wind -- severe wind chill warnings out this weekend -- too cold to work in the garage... again, this is when things get broken if you force them.  Not fit for man nor beast.  Before the mercury really dropped, some more parts came in.  The hotbodies undertail appears to be a pretty good fit, with the stock tail section in place.  Hopefully the Auctmart tail fits as good as the stocker, and everything lines up OK.  Do need to trim a bit of it, though -- the 2000-01 rear subframes are different than the newer bikes, so a bit of dremel work is in order.  I think I will use metric riv-nuts in the undertail, rather than the cheap plastic stock rivets.  Going to use an m5, rather than the more common m6 size.  Might need to pick up some and a driver for installation at Princess Auto.  Looks like I did a decent job cutting the stock undertail as well -- things seemed to be trimmed up properly.  Hotbodies instructions were a bit vague on this.
The CBR1000RR front brake assembly showed up as well.  $150 for two radial front calipers, and a radial master cylinder with lines (although they are the stock rubber ones)... smokin' deal!  Just waiting on the adapter plates to mount them.  Coming from Tyga in Japan, I think.
Compatibility alert -- post 2002 slip ons DO NOT work with 2000 and 2001 bikes.  Bought a pair of new blue FMF canisters off ebay, but they will not line up properly.  While the muffler p/ns are the same, the headers are not.  As well the seller mis-identified his product as 2001-06 mufflers... can't be -- they are 2002-06.  Word to the wise.  I've already re-sold them to another buyer off of a forum, and am going to be going with the Jardine 2-1 full system.  More expensive, but under $500 for a full stainless exhaust system?  Excellent price.  Some dynos report a dip at 5-7000 rpm, but again this can be mitigated by the modification to the flapper valve system.
Speaking of which, I did get these mods done via the instructions on the Rogue51 website, and two aforementioned kits from ebay.

This is the aluminum cap that replaces the solenoid- controlled item in the intake snorkel.  Just seals off the hole.  No more valve.  Should also create a slightly louder intake honk, apparently.  All of this for noise emissions.... really!

This is one of 2 "PAIR" valve covers.  The original pieces had a hoses coming in and out of these, connected to a soleniod, etc. etc.  Typical honda genious, but complicated and a bit weighty.  This is from the rear cylinder.  The front is the same, although corrosion over time (despite liberal application of WD-40) had one of the bolts strip.  It did come off with my friend Mr. Vice-Grip, and the offending bolt replaced with a steel allen bolt.

One less hose leading to the airbox meant that a spout needed to be plugged -- nothing easily at hand made of rubber, so a cap from a dried out glue stick and some JB Weld, and the airbox is now properly sealed off.  When the weather warms up, this will go back on the bike.  Intakes are currently being protected by rags.  Not ideal, even with the rest of the bike covered off.

The wee box has all of the crap I was able to remove by doing these two modifications.  Considering drivability is improved, especially in the "meat" of the powerband, makes this a worthwide expense in money (minimal -- $40), and effort (a few hours).  Of course, I haven't tried it yet, but all information points to this being a good modification to do.





Headers are going to come off next.  Again, they are currently being regularly soaked with WD40 -- the last thing I want to do is bust off an exhaust manifold bolt.  Will wait until things warm up before I takle that task -- apparently the weather is supposed to break by next weekend.  Knowing me, if the temps at least get into the -20s, I'll be out there.  The main advantage of the Jardine 2-1 system is the substantial weight savings -- some claim 30 lbs difference between the oem exhaust and the aftermarket stuff.  I can beleive it, as the stock cans I now have in storage wouldn't look out of place on an 18-wheeler.  Some even claim that the weight difference is noticable while riding on the street.  I find that hard to believe, but if a manufacturer was to shave just 15 lbs off a bike from one season to the next, it would make pretty big news.  I might even try to weigh all the stuff for a real-world comparison.
Got an email from the sales rep from Auctmarts -- my fairings are apparently being painted as I write.  Somewhere in Hong Kong, I guess.  I understand they make a run of fairings for the various bikes they make kits for, and then store them until they need to be painted -- sorta painted to order.  From a business point of view, smart, as there is no unsold stock lying around.

Here we go!

I've started the process of inspection, cleaning, and modification.  I'm always surprised at how quickly I get used to working in the cold.  I know that judicious application of heat from my heat gun can always help with rubber things, like gommets, bushings, and rad hoses.  I've also got pretty good outdoor work gear, and a few layers, and I always remember to keep a touque on.  It was only -11 degrees celcius today -- not that cold, but 30 degrees lower than what we should be working in.  Welcome to Manitoba.

It turns out some of the items I assumed were in poor shape weren't (like the chain), and with some varsol and a brush, the rear wheel and swingarm have come clean.  The rear shock looks like it has never been removed, so I think I might send it off to RMR suspension to get rebuilt.  The forks seem OK, and there has apparently been a relatively recent installation of fork seals.  Look fine, regardless.  I also set about removing some of the extranneous parts as per the RC51 forums -- the PAIR system and the Flapper Valve system.

This is what the PAIR system is all about:
The exhaust emission control system consists of a secondary air supply system which introduces filtered air into the exhaust gases in the exhaust port. Fresh air is drawn into the exhaust port whenever there is a negative pressure pulse in the exhaust system. This charge of fresh air promotes burning of the unburned exhaust gases and changes a considerable amount of hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into relatively harmless carbon dioxide and water vapor. The PAIR system is controlled by the ECM using check valves and a solenoid.



Removal of the PAIR system will yield three main benefits: 1) weight reduction 2) reduction of engine compartment clutter 3) increase in the scavenging ability of the exhaust system.

And here's everything you need to know about the flapper valve:

Many of you have complained about the dip in power between 5000 & 7000 rpm & others like myself have had an annoying fueling glitch (hiccup) at 6800 rpms especially with the Moriwaki's & a good map installed, although all the bikes are affected by the flapper valve, certain exhaust & map combos highlight this problem. Bill Staab has found a solution! (and wrote most of what you are about to read...)

By disconnecting the vacuum line to the flapper valve in the air intake duct you can completely eliminate the hiccup at 6800 rpm & reduce the power dip we have all seen on the dyno runs between 5000 & 7000 rpm.
As the flapper valve is an air intake noise control device which is not used on the basic racer, but rather only on the street legal bikes where noise levels are monitored by the EPA. It is advised that you only do this mod to "race only" bikes.
Having gotten the legal disclaimer out of the way let's get back to the flapper valves function. The valve is partially responsible for the power dip between 5000/7000 RPM. The flap is normally open. If you disconnect the vacuum line it will always stay open. You can remove the flap if you like. although it shouldn't make much difference with the stock air box. The HRC and Moriwaki air boxes have a larger duct with no flap for the race motors. The flap closes at about 5500 rpm which reduces the intake duct about 65%. It opens back up about 6700 rpm. This is done to reduce intake noise on the road bikes. The mod is done by simply disconnecting the hose at the diaphragm switch & plugging the hose with a screw,bolt or whatever you find handy or aesthetically pleasing.

The process to remove these items is pretty involved, and also requires some aftermarket pieces to plug holes, hoses, and parts on the engine.  Today I set about taking the stuff off, and when the parts come in, putting them in place and tidying things up.

The flapper valve is a little soleniod-controlled gate in the intake snorkel.  Taking it all off was pretty much a cinch.  The unit that controls the valve, once removed, leaves a gaping hole in the intake just behind the guages.  A nice machined piece that screws into place is on the way via ebay, from a seller that also sells some machined plates that take care of the PAIR covers outlined above.

I'm obviously mechanically inclined if I like the looks of bikes without bodywork, as much as I do when they are "fully clothed".  The greenish cover over the clutch is made of magnesium.  The cover ahead of it has "HRC" stamped into it -- for Honda Racing Corporation.  Both wheels have a nice satin black finish to them -- perfect color for any streetbike, if you ask me!  Electical gubbins draped over the subframe will be put back into place when the undertail is installed.  The battery box is also in the subframe, and part of that needs to be cut to suit.  Decided to take it all apart to make the cutting easier!

These are the throttle bodies.  Again, compared to the Ducati, the airbox was a breeze to remove.  The velocity stacks inside the airbox mount to the intake plenums of each injector body.  For screws, and some hoses, and it comes off pretty nicely.  Turns out the bike has some pretty nice BMC air filters already installed -- me with K&Ns on the way!  However, I have more experience with the K&N filters, and the fluids necessary to clean and oil them properly -- not sure what is required with the BMC stuff -- might be the same...




As I said, a few items are on the way -- FMF exhausts, a radial front brake adaptor kit, CBR1000RR radial brakes and master cylinder, some swingarm spools (currently using some bolts), a rear hugger (to keep the shock in better shape!), some lightweight exhaust brackets (don't think I'll be carrying any passengers on this!), and some new tires -- Bridgestone BT-021 sport-touring rubber.  As it comes in, I'll show some pics of it going on the bike.  Lastly, removing the tank has made all of this work much easier to perform -- as it will be color-matched to the new bodywork, it needed to come off anyway.

A new adventure begins...

Well, here it is... my new to me bike.  It's a 2000 Honda RC51.  Bought it from a guy in Winnipeg, who loved it but was just not riding it enough lately.  A month ago, before I even sold the Ducati 999 I had at the time, I took it for a test drive.  Everything seemed OK, although cosmetically the bike was rough.  The tires were shot, the mufflers were dented, and I wasn't sure about the shape of the chain and sprockets -- the bike had turned over 29000 km, so if these hadn't been replaced yet, they would need to be.  It was almost totally stock, aside from some things like grips, for example.  It had been down gently, and every body panel had been nicked or scratched somehow.  The tank, aside from a tiny, almost unnoticeable dent, was pristine.  It obviously needed some work, but the price was right.  When I sold the Duc, I phoned the guy and closed the deal, saving a few more dollars in the process.

After getting it home, I started to really look at the bike in greater detail.  I took off all the bodywork, and came to the conclusion that to repaint what I had, even though it was proper OEM parts, would be quite the chore -- pretty labour intensive as there would need to be sanding, and filling, as well as plastic welding of a few cracks in the fairings too.  The tank would have to be drained and stripped as well, and so I'd get a pretty plain, 1-color coat for some considerable dosh. Might need to look at some other options.

I got a good deal on some FMF exhausts, a few mod kits (the flapper valve mod, and the pair mod -- more details later), an undertail, some exhaust brackets, and some flush front signals.  The chain was just grimy -- a few hours with a stiff plastic brush and some varsol revealed a very good quality chain, newer than 30000km old, in the 530 size.  The rear sprocket could be replaced, and a larger size is recommended (up from the 40T stock), but certain CBR1000 sprockets are identical in the bolt pattern, and some year models have 41T -- an improvement without requiring a new chain.  That could save a bit of money.  As these and other parts come in, be rest assured that I will provide some updates as to how easily this stuff goes on the bike, and how it improves the overall package.  Of course, winter arrived after being about 1 month late, so test rides will have to wait.

In the end, the prospect of dealing with painters locally has me gambling (somewhat) on the other option -- aftermarket, OEM-style bodywork from China... well, Steven Harper just arrived there today, so maybe he'll put a good word in for me.  Actually, "auctmarts" who has by far the best reputation of the Chinese suppliers had this set on ebay:

Yep it looks a bit different -- as I said on my 'mono blog, I'm keen on retro paint schemes... this is the style of 60s and 70s cars that were sponsored by the Repsol oil company -- the "R" is the old Repsol logo before they got all funky with the orange and blue and yellow and white.  Suffice to say I am confident that no other bike, let alone another RC51 will look anything like this.  To match the tank is a fairly simple spray in "white" (stripes to be added, perhaps, later), and of course, white is easier to clean.  At the annual motoGP round, the Repsol Hondas and Ducatis are all painted up in this livery -- basically every major sponsor (even KTM in the smaller classes) paint their bikes up to commemorate the oil company's support:

This is Dani Pedrosa from this year's motoGP race -- Dovizioso, Hayden, and Stoner also had the same paint scheme.  So... how much?

All in, all of the fairing pieces shipped to my door for around $550 'murican.  Not bad, if the quality is good.  One OEM sidepanel, without decals, is more than that to replace.  The online reviews from Speedzilla and others say that because the RC51 bodypanels are relatively simple, compared to other bikes, they go together quite well fitment-wise.  There has been some concern with protecting these from the heat, but I'll apply some heat reflective tape to the inside of the panels, and hopefully that will work.  Stay tuned as the cleaning, adjusting, modifying, and improving fun begins.  Riding will come with the snow goes away!